Il Falco: welcomed addition to a sleepy stretch of Mt Hawthorn dishing write-home-about good pizza

Even we had to admit it was kind of funny to find ourselves seated behind a hulking black pizza oven inside an old body shop on one of the recent intolerable waves of what seems like an interminable high tide of heat. But we were also somewhat starstruck (in a sweaty, definitely non-coeliac way) to be so close to the impressive-looking Marana Forni, evidently a cult oven that is firing dough in more than 65 countries. Il Falco popped up some months ago in what was most recently the kind of car yard that made you wonder what was happening beneath the hood. It’s in a part of Mt Hawthorn that, based on the turnover, appears unable to sustain much more than charity shops, a butcher, a BWS and … a teddy shop. When Il Falco first opened in August I picked up a takeaway mortadella and burrata pizza that was astoundingly good — the kind you devour solo without a hint of remorse. A smallgood of undeniable excellence, mortadella is having a moment. Il Falco has a brilliant booking model that both works for the business but doesn’t treat the customer with contempt. You can book for 60 or 90-minute sittings, or longer stays for larger groups. We went for the 90, even though we’d be done in no time. The crowd is diverse: a baby shower, couples, girls’ nights and young families. Hard to tell if they’re all locals or have travelled for the privilege. A good business will, obviously, succeed in cultivating both audiences. An earlier menu had a few seasonal pasta dishes. They’re not there the night we visit. Just your pizza, red or white, cranked out of the belly of the beast (plus a kids’ menu). And that’s quite OK. We bide our time sussing out the original fixings of the shop — taking note of what would’ve, we presume, been the mechanic’s pit back in the day. The crew behind this charming venture (who have admirable hospo pedigree) have done a more-than-decent job of livening up the place without going overboard. The house white, a Cantine Lavorata Anfisya Bianco, $45, is a perfectly modest quaffer that comes super-chilled. It should go without saying that the pizzas, which come with a range of traditional and more contemporary toppings, are write-home-about good: dough all chewy and spotty, toppings luxe and generous. Take the Inferno: San Marzano tomato base, fior di latte, sopressa, nduja, basil, fresh chilli. It’s $26. We order it with a dipping bowl of Nonna’s rich sugo, $4, for the ample crusts. A very cute touch. That would have been enough but, alas, we also summoned the Amatriciana, $28: the aforementioned sugo with guanciale, buffalo mozzarella, grated pecorino, basil and a terrific house-made chilli oil. This neighbourhood joint — with parking and pick-up bays, twice-weekly BYO nights, a wee play area and fabulously congenial and efficient service, is so hot right now. Get on down. The verdict: 16.5/20 A thoroughly charming neighbourhood pizzeria that’s enlivened a sleepy stretch of SB Road. Il Falco 214 Scarborough Beach Rd, Mt Hawthorn Open Wednesday-Saturday, takeaway from 4.30pm, dining from 5-10pm. Sunday, takeaway from midday, dining from midday-9pm Contact ilfalco.com.au Bookings Yes