A controversial dash of flare in Scotland

It’s fair to say the W Edinburgh was a pretty controversial addition to Scotland’s capital.

The flagship hotel of the St James Quarter, a new $2 billion district just across from the central Waverley railway station, it looks unlike anything else in Edinburgh.

The hotel’s landmark 12-storey “Ribbon” building has a swirling bronze steel exterior, with its curling top earning it all sorts of monikers, from the “Walnut Whip” (after the popular British confectionery) to other, shall we say, cruder ones (including the “golden jobbie”).

While markedly different from the architecture in Edinburgh’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old and New Towns, you could argue that it’s an improvement on what was here before.

Neighbouring tidy, shop-lined lanes and a new covered mall that’s much sleeker than the Brutalist arcade that was here prior, W Edinburgh has 244 rooms and suites. Most are in the Ribbon, but some are in an adjacent restored Georgian tenement block and a brand-new stone building that’s been designed to make it look a century or more older.

This hotel has the corporate slickness you’d expect from a high-end Marriott, but you can expect distinctive Scottish touches and accents. Tartan is a regular feature, catching my gaze in the deconstructed tapestry, which graces the lobby, where unicorns, Scotland’s national animal, appear as faux hunting trophies by the elevators.

Guests have a choice of accommodation, from 23sqm rooms with views of Edinburgh Castle to the 149sqm “Extreme WOW Suite”, which has a round bed, private sauna and sweeping skyline vistas.

Most options in the Ribbon have a balcony or terrace, including my 27sqm “Fabulous King” room, whose standout feature is the rocky mini-bar table that has been carved to evoke the extinct volcanic crags of Edinburgh. On top of it, you’ll find complimentary bottled cocktails. Meanwhile, the furry copper cushions on the curvaceous sofa remind me of highland cows. Away from the living-sleeping area, there’s a separate toilet and walk-in shower with citrusy Momo gels.

All rooms have buttons to control mood lighting, wardrobes with 100 per cent cotton robes and coffee machines. Overall, the rooms and suites are stylish and comfortable places for hanging out, but I’m keen to capitalise on the best thing about this hotel: the views. High up the Ribbon, you can savour Edinburgh with all kinds of flavours.

On the 10th floor, SUSHISAMBA offers Peruvian-Japanese-Brazilian fusion cuisine for lunch and dinner, and also serves a very good breakfast (perhaps you’ll fancy a South American twist on French toast, although I can vouch for the excellent berries and granola and the filling “full Scottish” with haggis).

On the next level up, the W Lounge has all-day dining with an onus on modern Scottish fare, and Joao’s Place is an intimate bar that stays open until 3am (Wednesday to Sunday) with Sao Paulo-inspired cocktails, bossa nova vinyls and a terrace with fire pits.

You can also imbibe on the rooftop, which has all-weather igloos and incredible 360-degree views. I head up several times during my stay, both during the afternoon and again at sunset when a fiery red streak colours the sky and Edinburgh’s rugged peaks, castle, spires, domes and seaside jockey for my attention.

Elsewhere in the hotel, there’s a spa offering various treatments, including some with Hebridean seaweed, while there’s even a studio, where local musicians (and the occasional celebrity) pop in to record and rehearse.

Also brilliant is the hotel’s location, with most of the city’s sights and festival venues within easy walking distance of the hotel, and if you want to go further afield, there’s a tram stop nearby — with services to the airport and the hip port enclave of Leith.

And did I mention that Waverley station, with trains to Glasgow, London and dozens of other places in Britain, is a short stroll away? Overall, this W is a winner.

+ Steve McKenna was a guest of Visit Scotland. They have not influenced or read this story before publication.