An introduction to South-East Asia

Think of South-East Asia as we think of Europe — a contrasty mix of countries, except its right on our doorstep, with plenty of direct flights and one-stop hops.

And our winter is the time to consider dipping into it. Virtually all of South-East Asia is between the tropics, so temperatures are generally pretty warm, though it’s cooler in highland areas.

Even as the world rocks and reels financially, South-East Asia (the countries between China and India) can still offer us great value, close to home.

For some readers, it will be a return to old backpacking haunts — but maybe in more comfort, on small-group tours or river cruises.

For others who have travelled widely, particularly in Europe, and transited and stopped-over in South-East Asia, it might even free like a new idea.

The membership of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) gives us an idea of which countries we’re talking about — Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, the Philippines, Indonesia, Brunei and Myanmar.

ANYONE FOR DIPS?

Variety is on our doorstep, from clean high-rise cities to rural wellness retreats, islands to rice fields. From shiny shopping centres to cheap hawker stalls. From rainforests to curated gardens.

We might be on efficient public transport, in tuk tuks and taxis, and just walking side streets and alleyways.

And, of course we’ll be eating. The countries of South-East Asia leave a lingering tingle through their cuisine — pho in Vietnam; pad Thai in Thailand; nasi goreng in Indonesia; chilli crab in Singapore; laksa in Malaysia.

VARIETY IN STAYS

The experiences are varied — and my mind easily jumps through that variety …

+ In Singapore, we have a comfortable, engaging, safe and green city which is easy to get around, and has plenty to see and do. In Malaysia, I’d think first of the islands of Langkawi (for a quiet, beach-and-forest getaway) and Penang (for street life, food and history).

For textbook tropical islands and great resorts, we should filter through the Thai islands, from Ko Samui (busy because of The White Lotus) to classic Koh Chang and quiet Koh Kood. Phuket is simply fun.

In Vietnam, I’m tending away from the busy south and Ho Chi Minh city to the north, with Hanoi as “first base”, then travelling inland to Sapa, to walk between villages, where we can stay. Sapa sits under the peaks of the Hoang Lien Son Mountain Range. It has big highland views and stacked rice terraces. This is the land of eight ethnic minorities, who together form one of the strongest cultural areas in Vietnam. If you like markets, head for Muong Hum or Bac Ha. In central Vietnam, Da Nang is the base, and a pleasant place to stroll, shop and eat.

The heart of Cambodia is surely in the temples of Angkor Wat. Just remember that there are lots of temples (which we have written about many time in these pages) in Angkor Wat Archaeological Park, so allow plenty of time in the town of Siem Reap. Cycle around in the early morning. Soak it in. I stay at Villa Um Theara, a three-star local hotel (with mainly Cambodians) for less than $50 a night.

Laos still has charm, though it has become a big hub for international backpackers (drinkers) and those seeking adventurous thrills. In Vientiane, I’ll still head first to Phra That Luang and Wat Si Muang temples.

STEPPING BACK

The region is themed by cultural diversity.

One example — that about 6000 languages are spoken in the world, and 1000 of them are heard in South-East Asia.

Humans have inhabited the region for about a million years, as archaeological findings reveal.

Tribal groups wandered in from southern China, following river systems.

These ancestors adapted to the local environment in many ways. The orang laut sea people lived permanently in small boats. In the deep jungles, there were many tribes, family groups and head-hunters.

But while many premodern humans were nomadic, perhaps collecting the fruit of the lontar palm or sago, others settled on the fertile river plains and planted and grew rice. Sedentary coastal communities fished and traded.

Change came rapidly about 2000 years ago with the expansion of Chinese people south of the Yangtze River. They colonised Vietnam. In the west, Indian influence became more obvious in the Malay-Indonesian archipelago.

And in central South-East Asia, people settled and farmed from northern Vietnam through Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar, Java and Bali.

SAYINGS GIVE INSIGHTS

+ Putting gold leaf on the back of a Buddha image. (Doing good deeds without seeking attention.) — Thai saying

+ If you dip your arm into the pickle pot let it be up to the elbow — Malaysian proverb

+ Drop by drop fills the bamboo container — Cambodian saying

+ When you’ve heard it you must see it; when you’ve seen it make a judgement with your heart — Laotian proverb

QUICK-VIEW COUNTRIES

Singapore A city full of greenery, with lots of gardens and parks, but also spectacular new buildings, reliably good hotels and older areas to wander, like “old Singapore” between Raffles Hotel and Clarke Quay, Little India and Chinatown. But it’s not cheap.

Thailand Of course, there’s the big city stopover of Bangkok (try its markets in the evening), and I’m happy to couple that with a quick hop north to Chiang Mai or (better still) Chiang Rai, by the Mekong River. That gives a city-country contrast. And then, of course, there are those picture-perfect islands — an extension of the karst reef system that extended to Halong Bay in northern Vietnam.

Vietnam In the north, Hanoi is busy but easy. The French influence is still just visible (in the bakeries, if nothing else). The food is good. Da Nang and Hoi An, in the centre, are still favourites, for their charm.

In the south, Ho Chi Minh City is really busy, and only for two or three days, in my book.

Cambodia From inland jungles to the Mekong River with its big delta, it pretty well all feels rural and close to nature. The big city experience is in Phnom Penh, but I would pretty quickly head to Siem Reap.

Laos Luang Prabang and Vientiane retain charm, but its become quite busy and some is becoming more developed.

Malaysia Big cities and jungles, and the islands of the Malacca Strait, and Sabah on Borneo. Quite affordable shopping and decent food.

Philippines Fly direct from Perth to Manila, and head to cities, islands and beaches. But don’t venture south of Cebu.

Timor-Leste Fly between Darwin and Dili in about an hour for an off-the-beaten-track experience. History and culture, beaches and reefs and the mountains of the interior.

AIR NEWS, getting around

+ Singapore Airlines has been named Roy Morgan Research 2024 International Airline of the Year for the fifth time. The announcement was made on April 10 at the annual Customer Satisfaction Awards. SIA was recognised as the Best International Airline for customer satisfaction. Louis Arul, SIA’s regional vice-president South West Pacific, said: “Australia is one of our most significant markets, and for more than 55 years of operations Down Under, our customers’ comfort, travel experience and safety have remained our top priorities.

+ AirAsia plans to introduce more than 30 new routes in 2025, building better connectivity throughout ASEAN countries. The proposed acquisition of AirAsia by AirAsia X Berhad is almost complete, and this consolidation of short and medium-haul airlines into one big aviation group will further improve the airline’s position. In 2025, AirAsia will focus on enhancing cost leadership, optimising network and flight frequencies, and improving performance in Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Cambodia.

+ Vietjet, which flies direct between Perth and Vietnam, is planning to have nearly 300 new aircraft between 2025 and 2027. It has signed a $US300 million financing agreement with AV AirFinance — an agreement which forms part of a broader series of aircraft financing commitments exceeding $US4 billion.

TOURING, getting around

While travelling footloose and independently is still pretty simple in South-East Asia, others will like the planning and organisation done for them — and enjoy travelling with new, like-minded friends on tours.

Either way, always remember that a good guide can bring a place alive.

Intrepid Travel has very good itineraries in South-East Asia. The itinerary for its 24-day Premium South-East Asia in Depth in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand is impressing, and it is from $10,009 per person (without international airfares). I’d also look at the 15-day Premium Vietnam in Depth and Premium Java and Bali — for something familiar, but with a big twist. intrepidtravel.com/au

Inspiring Vacations also has good South-East Asia itineraries. Travellers who just want to dip into it all might look at its 27-day “Grand South-East Asia Premium Small Group Tour”, with a Mekong cruise included. It is from $7799 (without international airfares, which can be added for $1299). There’s a maximum of 20 guests. inspiringvacations.com

CRUISING, getting around

There are plenty of coastal, ocean cruises in South-East Asia — and they offer great value.

Examples include an 18-night package on Westerdam from Hong Kong to Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Singapore — all from $3990 per person. mycruises.com.au

And there are good river cruise package — like Imagine Holidays’ 21-night “Luxury All-Inclusive Mekong River Cruise with Vietnam and Cambodia Discovery” from $6999 per person. The river cruise is on Mekong Navigator. imagineholidays.com.au

APT has seven-night cruises on its luxury river cruise ship Mekong Serenity. aptouring.com

BEING IN BALI

Kuta, Legian and Seminyak are still Bali’s Big Three along the west coast. Of those, “legian” means “sweet” in Balinese, and is my pick of those. (Canggu may be the new Seminyak. It’s just a bit to the north, and quieter, with black sand beach.)

But, beyond the Big Three …

Nusa Dua This is upmarket Bali, with the nice Geger Beach. On the Bukit Peninsula’s east coast, there are luxury resorts and hotels, spas and golf courses.

Sanur This has a family atmosphere. In the south-east, there is a boardwalk, soft sand, gentle surf and easy access to the beach. There are lots of places to eat.

Jimbaran It has some luxurious resorts though its history as a quiet fishing village isn’t too far under its skin. Good for beaches and seafood.

Kintamani For those who like a bit more activity, this is a good spot, in Bali’s north-east. It is easy to hire a local guide in one of the small towns around Mount Batur. There are day walks and the temple Pura Ulun Danu Batur.

MORE ON SINGAPORE

While so many cities are covering themselves with concrete, Singapore has been transformed into a “city in a garden”. This dates back to 1963, and the vision of former prime minister Lee Kuan Yew. He wanted shade trees for walkers and public parks for families.

We could, perhaps, learn from what he said in 1980: “Singapore can become a green, shady city filled with fruits and flowers. A city worthy of an industrious people whose quest, progress is matched by their appreciation of beauty, of nature. The harshness of tarmac, concrete can be softened by the natural trees, flowers and birds.”

It is now “a city in a garden”, with Singapore’s Parks and Recreation Department continuing the campaign by “aggressively planting as well as developing parks”.

The highlight are the Gardens by the Bay.

+ Singaporeans love to eat. Singapore-style chicken rice is a national dish. The chicken is thoroughly cooked in boiling water then kept in cold water to keep it tender. Hainanese style rice is served with red chilli sauce dip. Ideally, the rice is cooked in chicken stock with ginger and pandan leaves. There are strict and policed health standards, and visitors can have confidence in authentic street food.

+ Stroll around “old Singapore” — Clarke Quay, Orchard Road, Chinatown, Little India and the Arab Quarter.

+ Sentosa Island has become its own destination, and is particularly suited to families, as it has Resorts World Sentosa and lots of other places to spend time.

EASTER in SEA

In hotels across South-East Asia, Easter is being celebrated in quite different ways.

Hong Kong The Hari Hong Kong celebrates Easter from April 18 to 21 with brunches and set dinners in its many restaurants. In its restaurant Zoku, ichya boshi with charcoal threadfin fish and daikon oroshi is coupled with wines and sakes.

Cambodia The Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor in Siem Reap has an Easter Sunday Champagne Brunch in Cafe d’Angkor on April 20. The renowned local Janvier Patisserie is producing a trompe l’oeil dessert.

Vietnam The classic, 124-year-old Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi has an Easter-themed high tea in the Le Club Bar (always somewhere to head for). An Easter egg scavenger hunt is among the fun at Alma Resort Cam Ranh near Nha Trang — an area to have on your radar.